3 Great Portrait Lenses for Crop Sensor Cameras with Jeff Rojas

by admin February 5, 2018 at 2:39 pm

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38 Comments

  1. I'm trying to understand this so correct me if I'm wrong but would the 90mm (or any lens) have the same compression on a crop sensor camera or full frame? The angle of view would "appear" to change because of the sensor size, but would the compression and perspective not remain the same? Enlighten me, lol. Thanks

  2. Isn't compression of a 90mm on a crop body the same compression as 90mm on full frame rather than the suggested compression of 135. I thought just the field of view is similar to that of a 125 due to the crop. Compression of a 90mm should be the same amount of compression regardless of sensor size.

  3. I use Tamron 24-70 on crop-sensor in studio as well, great lens even for shooting with natural light. My camera (EOS 50D) is quite old and ISO 1600 is pretty bad (for shooting indoor portraits with ambient light), but still my customers are thankful for the pics they get. And one question why don't you use Canon 135mm F2.0 L USM?

  4. The caption would have been , "three portrait lenses I use"
    Suggesting 2.8 lenses that are not even good enough for certain portraits aren't the best if suggestions.
    85mm 1.8 is better than all your choices.Like someone already pointed out up there,the sigma 50-100 will simply annihilate your choices.

  5. I was considering the sigma 50-100 but I hear too many mixed reviews, I think I'll just for for the tamron 70-200 2.8 g2.. I'll probably appreciate it later if I upgrade to full frame

  6. jeff last question…why not 80d? 24 vs 20 mp…because of the edge to edge focus points on 7d mark ii? because of usb 3.0 and better thetering? because of dual card slot of 7dmk2? retouching on 20mp portraits is easier?…

  7. Sure about the crop factor? I know the smaller sensor crops the sides of the image, but I don't know if it does anything for the zoom (focal distance). Maybe compare a 35mm lens on a full frame vs. 35mm on a crop senor. I believe the crop will certainly be different, but it would be interesting to see if the focal length is any different. Meaning, I don't know if a subject would appear any closer on the crop sensor camera. I don't know, just curios.
    Great images!

  8. My first question is, why are you using a cropped-sensor 20 mpxl Canon 7D mkII for an indoor fashion shoot? Wouldn't a full frame model like a 5D mkIII or mkIV give you better dynamic range and a higher megapixel count, without having to take crop factors of magnification and loss of light into consideration? I don't see any advantages here unless it is because like a lot of people, their cropped-sensor camera model is their ONLY camera… which is okay… but it leads me to question the choice of lenses you recommended.

    If people want to move beyond the canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens that came with their 80D, I wouldn't steer them to a $1100 Tamron lens. Canon has an EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM for less than $850 bucks. Guaranteed to work with your Canon cameras now and in future, better resale value than a Tamon too. Excellent general purpose lens with outstanding image quality. Wide f/2.8 aperture gives you ability to narrow that depth of field.
    Pick up a Canon "Nifty Fifty" 50mm f/1.8 STM prime while you're at it. Less than $150 bucks, works beautifully as an 80mm equivalent on an APSC sensor body.

    The other two Tamron lenses you mention, the $650 SP 90mm f/2.8 and the $1300 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 I wouldn't bother with.
    I'd buy the Canon 85mm f/1.8 USM for under $400 bucks, another great prime that's light, unobtrusive and takes fantastic pictures.
    Lastly, if I really wanted to burn through the remaining $1550 dollars in my pocket, why buy (again) a Tamron, when I can get a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM lens from B&H for $1300?

    Any camera can benefit from better glass, but I've always recommended sticking with the camera manufacturer lenses, unless you have enough money to not worry about it if a future camera model isn't supported, you don't care about resale value, don't give a hoot about potential bugginess, or so on. Then by all means, buy what you want.

  9. most of the time, when you shoot in studio, you are using aperture 4 and above.
    And most of the lenses, even kit lenses are able to take sharp images.
    Yes, it's good to have high quality lenses, but in studio all you need is some kind of zoom.

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